Site Visit...Cancelled!! - email

Hey everyone,

This will be a short one. I just read the first snail mail I sent and I want to clarify a few things. First, please excuse me for using the word 'explosive' in conjunction with diarrhea. I now realize that may have been a little too graphic. It’s actually not accurate either. Everyone struggles with diarrhea here, and I think I would describe it as 'severe'. Explosiveness is probably more case by case and little more personal. Either way, I was just kind of embarrassed that I even used that phrase. I guess it doesn't help that I just began this whole letter with a paragraph about diarrhea, does it? Oh well. We're all quite used to talking about that here. I think it will please you to know that I still haven't gotten very sick. My fingers are still crossed. And they should be, since two people in our stage have already gotten malaria and almost everyone has been sick at some point. And EVERYONE has gotten diarrhea. But it’s all good. We’re having a blast.

Second point on my first snail mail. My host father does not have three wives. He only has one. Which is good, I think I respect him a little more now. Turns out there is just a lot of extended family that lives around the compound and it’s hard to know who is who. Family is such a broad term here. I’m still having trouble knowing who's actually part of the family. I'm about to stop caring.

Third point. I'm not actually expecting people to send me packages. I just wanted to clarify from my first email that I do accept food. That was mostly for my mom though. However, it would be really cool to get snail mail letter from y'all. That’s always a good thing.

Ok, here's the update. I'm sure you're all wondering about site visit. What it is and why it is cancelled. I'll try to be concise. The plan was for us all to come to Mamou (which we did), meet our counterparts (the people we are going to work with at our sites), and then on Sunday, all travel to our respective sites (Dabiss for me) for a week long site visit. We were all very excited about it. I know I was. However, as you may or may not know, there was an assassination attempt on the President of Guinea about a month ago and it has caused a chain reaction of little problems that eventually caused a country wide taxi driver strike. This is why we can't have our site visits. Just so you all don't worry, there isn't any kind of real threat or political instability. The taxi drivers are on strike because there has been a huge increase in barrages on the roads. These are for security reasons and they make taxi drivers pay to get through. So now they are on strike. It’s a stupid situation and we were all upset when we found out site visit was cancelled last night. Oh well. It will hopefully happen later in training. So tomorrow we go back to Dubreka.

On the bright side, I met my counterpart and I really like him and lot. He is very easy going, nice, and seems to be quite knowledgeable. He runs the health center in Dabiss and has lots of experience working in the health sector. He is very excited for my arrival in Dabiss, come April. So is the rest of the village. At the end of our workshop today, I actually played hackysack with him and the guy who runs the hospital in Boke for about an hour and a half. We had a blast. It was amazingly fun. Oh, I wish I could write more, but I have to go. I'll write more in a snail mail. I hope everyone is doing well. Take care,

Love,
Anders

Snail Mail Letter #2 - site assignment and map

02/06/05 [map of Guinea]

Thanks for the letter! It was so nice for me to read it. It’s also good that you asked me some questions. Knowing your questions really helps me write the letters. I got your letter yesterday in Conakry. We were on our way to an island off the coast called Kassa for a day at the beach. A well-deserved break in my opinion. They have kept us busy lately.

Oh Yeah! Exciting news! While in Conakry, before Kassa, we were all informed about our sites. I now know where I’ll be spending my two years, come April. My village is called Dabiss and it is about 40 or 50 k north of Boké, the regional capital of the Basse Cote region (lower Guinea). It’s quite close to the coast as well. This area also gets about 170 inches of rain each year, mainly during the rainy season. In a lot of ways, it is similar to Dubreka, where I’m living now. The climate is similar and I will be learning to speak Susu, the local language. I don’t know a whole lot about Dabiss right now, but I thought you’d be interested to know. I’ll know more by next weekend when we get our site info packets.

Sorry if I haven’t been writing enough lately. I haven’t written much for myself either. I’m not sure why exactly. Part of me thinks it’s because I could never forget what is happening to me right now. It’s also because it’s tough to describe what I’m going through. And, I have very little time, which is surprising. I was under the impression that I’d have plenty of free time when I came out here. But apparently that is only true once you get to site, not during stage (training). We always have something to do. Even today, which is supposed to be the day off, I went with my host mom and brother (Inga & Dereim) to the market. This was so I could see how one buys food and bargains for prices. It was fun though. I enjoy spending time with my host family. And going to the market is an experience in itself.

Anyway, to answer some of your questions, I’ll start with my host family. I’m not sure if I already said something about this, but at first I thought my dad had at least three wives because there were so many women about, each with their own set of kids. But after speaking with my brother, I learned that he only has one wife, my host mother. My dad is very nice and easy going. He is short and smokes lots of cigarettes. He is always eager to help me learn either French or Susu. He also has been great at accommodating whenever I need something. I spend a good 30 minute each day chatting with him about anything, just to help with my French. He has a huge extended family and is constantly introducing me to one of his nieces or nephews or cousins or sisters or brothers or aunts or uncles. Each time he does, I just get more confused about how family structure works here. Last night I was introduced to one of his daughters even though I was quite sure I only had one sister. The one sister I thought I had lives with my uncle for some reason. And the PCT [Peace Corps Trainee] who is living there told me last night that she was her sister, not mine. And today, in the market, I met my host brother’s father! How could that be? If he’s my host brother, why do we have different fathers and mothers (I’ve met his mother too)? Oh well, sorry to get off on a tangent.

My host mother is wonderful. I’m blown away by how hard she works. It seems like women do all the work here. Actually, they do. She makes me breakfast and dinner every day. She sweeps my room everyday and does my laundry. She also cooks and cleans for everybody else. I try to help her sometimes but she won’t have it. She doesn’t speak a word of French, which is tough. But I’ve been learning relevant Susu phrases so we can have some degree of communication. I can say things like, “I’m going to school”, “I want to take a shower”, “Thank you, the food was good”, etc. My list is building. She absolutely loves each time I use Susu. She’ll usually just start laughing and smiling and then either repeats what I just said or responds with something else. But we can’t really converse at all. This is hard because she always seems so eager to talk to me. Anyway, that’s Tata (or Inga, there are many names I can use for her). She’s great.

I have two brothers. One is 25 and I am named after him, Aboubacar. He lives here and is very calm and reserved. He likes to come in and try to play my guitar. He doesn’t really seem to have a knack for it though. He speaks French but we often don’t have lots to talk about. That’s mostly because my French is still evolving. We get along well and I like him.

My other brother, Dereim, is 20 and he lives somewhere else in Gbereyire. But he comes over a lot. He is very outgoing. He knows some English and I have been helping him learn more in exchange for French and Susu help. I’d say Dereim is probably my best friend here, non-American. He says hello.

Then there is the rest of the family. Lots of little kids. Now, even though I officially have 2 brothers and 1 sister (just like at home!), I have about 7 younger brothers and sisters. They are referred to as “the petites.” They are wonderful, and very easy to please. I usually either kick around a ball with them or play guitar for them and they love it. They get a kick out of anything I do. Whenever I’m returning home from school or a friend’s place, they come running out to give me five as soon as they see me. Also, when Tata gives me more than I can eat (which is not uncommon), they’re always willing to help me finish something off. I love the petites. However, it’s sad for me to see so many of them living under such difficult conditions. Fortunately, the petites in my family are relatively well-off.

Let’s see, what other questions can I answer? In reference to things you can send me, I’ll do that through email since it’s bound to get to you quicker than this letter will. I will be back in Mamou on the 17th for a little while, where I will have internet access. So yes, it is hot here. Humid and hot! Basically, it’s like summertime back home, hot and humid during the day, slightly cooler at night. But, without AC, it’s hot sleeping weather. However, the “hot” season doesn’t come for another month or two. Hopefully, my body will have adjusted to the temperature somewhat by then.

And yes, it is beautiful here. The region I’m in now has lots of coconut trees and we’re surrounded by mountains, one of which we hiked last weekend. The only problem is that it’s the dusty season, which makes everything hazy. But there’s lots of vegetation everywhere. This area isn’t desert-like at all. And during the rainy season, the dust goes away and the vegetation gets greener and lusher. So, it’s supposed to be extra beautiful then.

French is coming along. I can tell that I’m improving. I’m surrounded by it constantly so it’s almost hard not to pick it up. Plus, this week (week 4) we begin total immersion, which means all of our classes (tech classes, cross culture training, and medical sessions) will be in French, with some translation for the essential info. So that should help my learning curve. And once I hit a high enough level of proficiency in French, I can start learning Susu. Fortunately for me, and the others living in the Basse Cote, Susu is the language spoken by all of our host families. So we can get a head start on all those going to the Fouta (Middle Guinea) and Haute (Upper Guinea) where they speak Pulcar and Malinke. As I said before, I’ve already begun to learn some Susu with my family. But the focus is really on French. I’m being immersed in so much French that I’m starting to think in French. However, I think that’s making me dumber since my French is so bad. Does that even make sense? Hmm… Yup. I’m definitely dumber now.

Anyway, yes mom, there is lots and lots of beautiful fabric here. You would have a field day at the market. All the women wear beautiful dresses, probably much like the pictures you saw from Niger.

And the weight thing, I don’t know if I’m, losing weight, there aren’t scales around. I think I’m eating more now than I ever did in the states. I get fed all the time. But you never know. All the male volunteers I’ve seen here looked quite skinny. According to everyone here, the guys lose weight and the girls gain weight. But don’t worry, girls don’t get it all that bad. Calling someone ‘fat’ in Guinea is a huge compliment. It means you are healthy. Now that’s a huge consolation.

OK, it’s time to wrap this up. Final thoughts. Thanks to those who read this far. Keep the questions coming. My thoughts and prayers go out to the Eagles tonight for the Superbowl. You guys better cheer them to victory. Let me know what’s happening back home and in the world (I don’t get any sort of news here) – World news only if it’s interesting. Inside, I’m doing fine. I’m happy and I have friends here. Life is hard, but I’m plugging along, just like all of you back home and everyone here. This is how I don’t psyche myself out. And it works… I think… Holy crap! I’m in Guinea!! What am I doing here?!! AHH!!!! That happens sometimes too, but I’m learning to deal with it. One day at a time. Anyway, time to go. I love and miss you all. Go Eags. I love you guys… See ya.

Love, Anders

First snail mail - training in Dubreka

1/23/05 22:30 (5:30 PM EST)

Hello everyone! It’s about time I write a letter. Right now I’m sitting in my little hut in my host family’s concession, wondering if the Eagles won, thinking about my family. Tomorrow, I have to bring a picture of my family to French class, so I’m sitting here looking at all of you. I miss you all! I want you to know that. But also know that I don’t feel too homesick, or sick at all for that matter. It seems like most of the people in my stage (group of trainees I came here with) have felt sick at some point. So far, I haven’t. However, no one has become seriously ill, meaning no one has malaria or amoebas or typhoid or severe diarrhea yet. Supposedly all PCVs [Peace Corps Volunteers] in Guinea go through that stuff at some point. Anyway, the point is, I’ve been here for 11 days now and physically, I’m doing fine, which I guess isn’t too surprising. So maybe I should move on to something more interesting. It’s just so hard to know what to write about. I’m encountering this same problem when I try to journal. I want to write something that will accurately capture or reflect what I am going through right now. I want you to read this and understand where I am right now. But that is impossible. There is simply too much to write about. It doesn’t take long to figure that out. I don’t have the time to give every detail. But I really truly want to. These past two weeks have been incredible. So let me just start somewhere.

Last Thursday (1/20) was Tabaski. This is an Islamic holiday and I live in an Islamic country. Tabaski is a relatively important holiday for Guineans. So on this day, we had no school (PC school that is) and were meant to spend the holiday with our family. I was a little nervous because this was only our third day with our host family and my French is still not fully functional. Anyway, I woke up and took a shower, which we call bucket baths because that’s what they are (instead of a shower, I pour water on myself out of a bucket). After the bucket bath, I went with my host father, Alseny, and my older host brother, Aboubacar to pray for Tabaski. That was a very cool experience. We didn’t go to the mosque because so many people pray on Tabaski and there isn’t enough room. So a large group of people gathered together under some trees, spread out their mats, took off their shoes and prayed. The women sat behind all the men and were covered from head to toe in their best clothes. That was a bit weird for me, mostly because I was wondering if any of the female PCVs were back there and what they thought about having to sit in the back. Before the prayers began, the men were having some discussion, with a goblet that served as a talking stick. It was in Susu (the local language) so I didn’t understand any of it, but I wondered if they were discussing the assassination attempt on the president from the previous night (don’t worry, everything is fine here – we’re safe). Anyway, it went on for about an hour and fifteen minutes, and then we finally prayed. No more thoughts on that.

Afterwards, I walked around my village Gbereyire (pronounced Barry Airy) with my younger brother, also named Alseny, who has become a good friend of mine. It is customary for a family with enough money to kill a goat as a sacrifice for the holiday. My grandfather had the money to buy a goat, so we went to his place and I watched them slaughter and butcher the live animal. I found it fascinating. Anyway, not much happened the rest of the day, festivity wise. I went to Dubreka with my older brother to see my younger brother play in a big soccer game. His team lost 4 – 0 and he got some sort of concussion at the end.

I’m having trouble writing this letter. What do you all want to know? I feel like I’m doing a poor job of giving a window into my life here. So I hope when people get this, they can write me back with some questions. Ask me anything. Also, tell me how you are doing. I’d love to know.

OK, before I stop, I’ll try to give you a general overview of what’s happening. I’m in Dubreka for Peace Corps training. We are learning technical skills for our respective jobs (mine is public health) and language skills (French and a local language depending on where we are placed). We have classes six days a week. We are just now beginning our second week of training. In the fourth week, we are totally immersed in French. That means all our classes are spoken in French and we can’t even speak to each other in English. That should be interesting. When we aren’t in class, we are usually with our host family. My own host family experience has been mostly good. I have my own hut which is nice, even though it’s infested with huge spiders, roaches, and ants. I’m getting used to it though. My room has one light bulb and an outlet. I have a table and a bed, too. But that’s about it. My family brings me my food in my room, which doesn’t help the bug problem. Privacy isn’t highly valued over here and it’s quite obvious. People knock on my door all day long and always want to know exactly what I’m doing, especially my father. But I like him. At night, I often go outside and sit with my family and try to speak with them. They teach me French and Susu (their local language). Susu is nothing like French, so it’s not coming along quickly for me. My mother only speaks Susu, so I’ve learned how to say a few survival phrases such as “Thank you, it was good” (for the meals she brings me). I eat lots of rice and sauce. That’s pretty much all there is. I miss American food a lot. My dad has three wives and they all have lots of cute kids. The women also seem to do all the work. They work hard all day and the men enjoy lots of hanging out time. Oh yeah! I forgot to mention my new African name. I am called Aboubacar Camera. It is pronounced just like it reads. This is also my older brother’s name. They tell me it’s a good name.

Anyway, that’s all I have left in me. There will surely be more later. I hope you are all doing well. I definitely am. Life goes on here just like it does anywhere else and I am getting by. Allah tantu (thanks be to God in Susu). Take care.

Love,
Anders

P.S. You can send me food. Just make sure it’s non-perishable (like candy!)
P.P.S. I just found out the Eagles made it to the Superbowl. The first time it’s happened since I’ve been alive and I’m in a third world country where I can’t watch it. Oh well. GO EAGS!!! (Frank, you’d better be working on my Superbowl package).
P.P.P.S. If you send a package, just use regular mail and use red ink (Guineans think red ink means bad luck or death, so they won’t search through the package). On the customs slip, you should use red ink also and declare the value as either 0 or $1. This is for safety reasons. Someone else said religious symbols help, too. Anyway, you have my address. Thanks!